The small sign pounded into the ground at the corner of Route 50 and Glenridge Road announced that Slice of Glenville was now open. We made a quick turn and drove into the ample parking area behind Dunkin’ Donuts.
Slice Italian Eatery & Pizzeria was sandwiched approximately midway between the ends of the short strip of stores. We were escorted to a large, slightly raised booth identified as “Schenectady” on a sign on the wall above it. Topped with gray granite and flanked by maroon seats, each of the six booths was named after a local city. Five regular and two high-topped tables with black chairs filled the tile-floored room along with a narrow counter across the front windows. A white waffled ceiling with recessed lights tied it all together.
Besides being printed on paper menus, Slice’s offerings were drawn with colorful marker on large chalkboards at the far end of the eatery, and desserts were temptingly on view in glass cases beneath.
Slice Italian Eatery & Pizzeria
WHERE: 10 Glenridge Road, Glenville; 280-2325, www.sliceofglenville.com
WHEN: Tues.-Sat. 11 a.m. to 8 p.m., Sun.-Mon. closed
HOW MUCH: $37.50 without tax and tip
MORE INFO: Accessible, parking in large lot, all major credit cards accepted, music permits conversation, takeout available, gluten-free meals available
A whole side of the menu was dedicated to pizza ($9 and up depending on size and toppings) and wings (starting at $7 for six wings). Pizza/wing combos are also available, priced according to size of the pizza, and type and amount of wings.
The flip side of the menu listed Appetizers ($3-$12), Italian Entrees ($11-$19), Tunnels (hot subs made fresh daily, $9-$16 depending on size and type), Salads ($4-$14) and Heros and Panini ($8-$11, depending on size and fillings).
Slice has been open a month. As a starter, we requested a small order of appropriately named Utica Greens ($8 and $12) — a spicy mix of garlic, prosciutto, Pecorino Romano, Romaine, seasoned bread crumbs and cherry peppers, served hot. The double whammy of spice and heat inflamed John’s mouth as well as mine, and I felt like Hot Lips Houlihan for the rest of the meal. I’ve had several variations of Utica Greens and this was among the best.
We agreed to sample Slice’s specialties. The Glenville Signature Wings with spicy ranch dressing ($7) listed on the specials board caught my eye. The six succulent wings arrived hot in a white oval bowl, drizzled with spicy ranch sauce and sprinkled with parsley for color. The wings were worthy of their designation “Signature.”
The small House Pizza ($9 plus two toppings at $1.50 each) was on John’s list. What made it special was not the type but the order of the ingredients. From bottom to top Slice’s pizza is assembled in this manner: crust, mozzarella, topping(s), sauce and parmesan. Traditionally, pizza is made with the topping on the top, not the bottom — hence the designation “topping.” Our chosen toppings, sausage and fresh diced green peppers, were spread to the crispy edges of the crust.
Although much of our lunch was wrapped to go home with us, John eyed the dessert case critically. He chose a small cannoli with melt-in-your-mouth cream filling for himself and a small slice of excellent carrot cake with the traditional cream cheese frosting for me ($3 each) — to share, of course. Nods, smiles and murmurings of pleasure revealed our mutual appreciation for the small but near-perfect last course.
Non-alcoholic bottled beverages ($2.25 each) were served from coolers near the takeout counter.
One can only assume that Slice’s Italian standards like Mozzarella Sticks ($6), Veal Parmigiana ($19), Fettuccini Alfredo ($13), Philly Cheesesteak Tunnel (hot sub, $11) and a variety of Heros and Paninis ($8-11) are prepared and served with the same care as the foods we enjoyed.
Summing it up
As we walked to the car, John summarized Slice in this manner: “It’s a new slant on old favorites. The food is fresh and it’s good. Care is taken with both the food preparation and service. It is clear that the management and staff are striving for happy customers. Enthusiasm by the staff for what is served and how it is served is miles above the ordinary.”
An example of Slice’s going the extra culinary mile was exhibited by our server Savannah. Partway through the meal, she brought us a small plate of complimentary warm fried dough balls dusted with powdered sugar to sample. We discovered these same sweet treats slipped into our take-home container, enough to tip the balance in favor of two more happy customers.